If you can handle the bumps coming and going (see earlier Santa Fe post) or you’re eccentric enough to hitch a saddle onto your horse to avoid the hassle of airports and rental cars, the city of Santa Fe and the surrounding high desert are truly a sight to behold. There’s something about how the light hits the mountains and filters through the trees and casts shadows against the adobe brick buildings. Every angle is worthy of a photograph and every photograph is worthy of a postcard.

On my first morning in New Mexico, I tried to visit the Puye Cliff Dwellings, an abandoned pueblo in Los Alamos that’s now a National Historic Landmark. Upon arriving to the gate of the park, I found it closed. No explanation on the signage and no update or notice of closing on the website. To say that I was disappointed (particularly after my rough start the day prior) would be an understatement. Later, the concierge at my hotel would explain that times are more of a suggestion than a rule in this place. My uptight, urban expectations of timeliness needed to take a rest. The universe was saying, “Relax, lady!” I proceeded to make the drive to downtown Santa Fe to save the day with a museum visit.

Finding parking near the downtown Plaza was an easy task. The Sandoval Parking Garage (216 W San Francisco Street) is centrally located and a very easy walk to everything that the area has to offer.

Day 1: New Mexico Museum of Art (107 W Palace Avenue). I can spend quite a lot of time inside an art museum. That day was no exception. Walking to the museum offered lovely autumn weather and the chance to peruse gallery windows along the way. Planted throughout the Plaza area were trees that dropped these interesting pods. I didn’t know what kind of trees they were and my fellow tourists walking along didn’t seem to know either. I’ve included a photo here so maybe one of our future readers can let me know.

The museum’s building is gorgeous. A highlight of the city and a photo opportunity for those of us lucky enough to encounter it. It embodies the New Mexico of your imagination. Earthy adobe, exposed weathered wood, and biomorphic lines. A constant interplay between soft and hard. Masculine and feminine. Take a few minutes to stand outside and take in the architecture.

For a very reasonable $12 Non-NM resident ($7 resident) ticket, full access is granted to the museum grounds. There is no surcharge for special exhibits. For those traveling with families, you can’t beat the free admission for youth under 16. The front desk representative was incredibly friendly and enthusiastic about the collection. On my map, he drew a path to guide my steps through every space. My visit included special exhibits on Donald Beauregard’s paintings (“An American in Paris”), Manuel Carillo’s photography (“Mexican Modernist”), and Rick Dillingham’s ceramics (“To Make, Unmake, and Make Again”). That afternoon, I enjoyed pistachio gelato in the Plaza Square as I watched the leaves falling. Lots of friendly dogs stopped by to say hello. Question worth asking: why does everyone in New Mexico seem to have a Husky?!

Day 2: Georgia O’Keefe Museum (217 Johnson Street). This was my absolute favorite spot in Santa Fe. For whatever reason, I love the museums, homes, and centers devoted to artists and writers. Fundacio Joan Miro in Barcelona (amazing). The Hemingway House in Key West (lovely). There’s something about diving into a person’s life and ideas with full force and attention. Learning about their quirks, their surroundings, their influences and inspirations, and how they liked their eggs. There’s a sense of connection to the work gleaned from visiting these places that’s like nothing else. The Georgia O’Keefe Museum charges adults $11 (very reasonable!) and youth under 17 are free.

First, let me say, I was really disappointed in myself that I didn’t reserve the to visit O’Keefe’s home and studio in Abiquiu, New Mexico, in advance. Really, what was I thinking? After spending a glorious few hours at the O’Keefe Museum, I was doubly disappointed in myself. Checking in to the museum was a tad bit chaotic. There were small groups waiting outside the front doors prior to the 10 AM opening, so naturally it made for a cramped lobby for purchasing tickets. Purchasing online will save lots of time. Once you manage to squeeze through, gallery after gallery of O’Keefe’s work will leave you mesmerized. Breathe it in for as long as you can.

The museum explores O’Keefe’s ideas, values, and experiences. Coming to New Mexico from New York, she really wanted busy New Yorkers to stop and take in the architecture of a beautiful flower. She viewed canyons and skies through animal skulls and simply painted through that perspective. She recorded the undeniable magic of New Mexican landscapes. Somehow she captured the color palette of land and skies. A small section of the museum is dedicated to her personal effects. A Japanese-inspired robe, the hats and brooches and belts, recipes written in her own hand, cooking utensils. Funny, the artifacts that speak to our lives when we’re gone.

Day 3: The Plaza. I devoted this day to walking the streets and blocks around the downtown Plaza. I took in the churches, architecture, and flora. I sat upon the park benches. I popped in and out of galleries displaying the finest pottery, rugs and weavings, jewelry and belt buckles, hats, and sculpture. I bought “souvenirs” for my kids (a small Acoma pot for my daughter and a Navajo kachina for my son). Then, after several days of Old Mexican and New Mexican flavors, I found the best unexpected surprise: a little dumpling shop called Buns.

It’s hard to find a good Chinese dumpling shop, much less a great one, anywhere in the country. Yet, hidden in an indoor shopping plaza off the main square in Santa Fe, New Mexico, you’ll find a grumpy Chinese lady making bao by hand behind a small plexiglass screen. I ordered the scallion pancakes and soup dumplings. The dumplings were a braised, perfectly seasoned beef packed with flavor and comfort and just plain goodness. A dumpling filled with hugs.

Day 4: Museum of Indian Arts and Culture (710 Camino Lejo on Museum Hill). There’s a lovely wide-open courtyard connecting the Museum of Indian Arts and Culture and the Museum of International Folk Art. The brochure stated that festivals and dances occur in this wonderful open space. I hated to miss this but it adds another bullet on the future visit list.

The Museum of Indian Arts and Culture was my second favorite spot in Santa Fe. For just $7 (again, free for youth under 16), you can fill an entire day with the wonderful pieces and history found in this collection. Every phenomenally curated gallery includes history and narratives from peoples of many tribes. The pieces are mesmerizing. The stories are both uplifting and depressing, but always inspired. I spent hours here. I found myself (secretly) grateful for being alone so that I could take my time in each gallery. I eventually had to eat, though I was in no hurry to leave. Luckily there is a cafe just steps away.

The Museum Hill Cafe (710 Camino Lejo) is exactly what you’d want it to be. I dined in their outdoor patio area. My server was friendly and attentive. Red umbrellas shaded the outdoor area giving just enough relief from the always blazing New Mexican sun. Sun hats and sunglasses are certainly recommended. I ordered the fresh salmon tostadas and a side basket of sweet potato fries. The corn tortillas of the tostada were crispy and loaded with salmon (slightly dry), greens, and pico. Yum! The sweet potatoes were a perfect complement. Feeling reenergized after my late lunch, I powered through the Museum of Indian Arts and Culture’s sculpture garden. Again, sunhat and sleeves are recommended. If you’re looking for the perfect memento from your stay in Santa Fe, it’s worth mentioning that this museum/attraction had the best gift shop of all the museums and sights on my itinerary.

Day 5: Santa Fe Botanical Gardens (715 Camino Lejo). I was feeling a little tired from the previous day so I got a later start driving back to Museum Hill to check out the Santa Fe Botanical Gardens. Adult tickets were $12 and youth (7-17) tickets were $7. The botanical gardens include nineteen acres of native trees and plants, of which eight acres are developed with walking paths and special focus areas. During my October visit, most of the plant life was mostly dried out and brittle despite mild daily temperatures. I would love to return one day and see the gardens in full bloom. Overall, it was a lovely visit. It was especially nice to get out and enjoy some fresh air and walking after being indoors for most of the previous day. The trails are well maintained and offer some beautiful vistas. For an October visit, I’m not sure I felt the $12 was a fair admissions fee considering most of the “gardens” per say had died out. Many botanical gardens change the plant life every season to maximize the enjoyment of visitors, but I understand Santa Fe sticking “true to mission” and keeping the areas fixed. Just be aware that visits during the off-season will not offer the same experience as spring and summer visits.

Day 6: Reflection. There’s so much more that I wanted to see and do. I wanted to return to the Puye Cliff Dwellings. Next time I’ll make the advanced reservations to visit O’Keefe’s home and studio. I wanted to spend a few hours at Meow Wolf, the insane indoor, interactive exhibition space. I missed visiting the farmer’s market. I want to daytrip to Taos. I wanted to engage in some wacky alien conspiracies and I missed visiting Beastly Books, the fantasy and sci-fi bookstore owned by George R.R. Martin (of “Game of Thrones” fame). So much more to see and do. Instead, I found myself thinking and reading and writing and looking forward to returning home. I miss my people and my dog.

Next time.