Santa Fe stirs something in folks.

It’s hard not to be lured to a place that has inspired artists and musicians for generations. Bon Jovi sang of riding somewhere south of heaven. Van Morrison subtitled Santa Fe as “Beautiful Obsession” and sang of it as a mistress of place, much like sailors sing of the ocean.

Bellamy Brothers: Her sunrise could bring light into a blind man.” Broadway’s Newsies: Just be real is all I’m askin’, Not some painting in my head. Broadway’s Rent: Let’s open a restaurant in Santa Fe…Let’s leave this cold Bohemian hell. Examples are endless. It seems only Bob Dylan preferred Los Angeles to this high desert mecca. . . . what does he know?

Santa Fe Coming and Going

Very few flights fly in and out of Santa Fe’s small airport. From Charleston, I flew American Airlines and connected in Dallas. As I was traveling alone, I thought the convenience of landing at the (much) smaller airport in Santa Fe (for more dollars) would be a better choice than flying into the larger Albuquerque airport. I’m not sure I would make that choice again.

The flight from Dallas was filled with what I assume are stereotypical Santa Feans. Hats, belt buckles, heavy necklaces and large rings laden with turquoise and desert coral. Leathered faces, necks, and forearms. The (maskless) woman seated next to me, who was suffering from a runny nose and cough (!), brought three apples onto our two hour flight. From the corner of my eye, I watched the shine of her silvered fingers gnaw each apple to its sticky core and then drop each into the netted seatback magazine holder in front of her. She’d proceed to wipe her nose on the edge of her knitted sweater. I put up the hood of my sweatshirt and tried to breathe as shallowly as possible.

When the flight landed, the passengers exited the stairs that had been pulled to the side door of the aircraft, stepped onto the tarmac, and then took stairs to the baggage claim area. Baggage claim was a trailer-type space with folding chairs. Once my bag was claimed, I crossed a small wooden porch from the baggage claim area into the “terminal.” Two rental car desks (Avis and Hertz) were located right inside the door within a narrow hallway. Several customers were waiting in line with me. All of us (with reservations) were told that there were no cars. Whether they hadn’t been returned or they hadn’t been serviced, all we knew is that there would be a long wait. The employees didn’t seem to be acting in a way to suggest that this was unusual. Every person with a rental reservation waited inside the tiny terminal. I will note that the service at Avis seemed friendlier and more efficient than Hertz.

There was once a snack counter inside the terminal but it was demolished. In its place, a small service desk stood next to an (out of service) electronic check-in kiosk. There was very limited seating. Folding chairs and old couches and chairs with the stuffing trailing out of the cushions. Maybe Dylan was onto something?

Finally, a car assignment. After a strange bit of time standing alone on a dirt patch against a chain-linked fence, a shuttle appeared to take me to the rental car lot. Santiago, the driver, was kind. I couldn’t imagine him leaving his apple cores behind for someone else to clean up.

Sitting in the Toyota hybrid, I took several deep breaths. Whatever you call a palate cleanser for the mind. To the hotel. I had booked a week at the Hilton Buffalo Thunder Resort, about twenty minutes from the airport and equidistant to downtown Santa Fe. I needed rest so I didn’t want to be “right in the middle of things.” I learned (eventually) that Santa Fe doesn’t have that vibe anyway, but the resort seemed like a good choice because perhaps I’d want to bring my kids back sometime.

The resort was easily accessed from the highway’s exit. My trip was the week following New Mexico’s famed Hot Air Balloon Festival so I didn’t know what to expect regarding crowds. The exterior was dreamy. The colors and textures you would want and expect from a temporary Santa Fe home. Seeing the statue in front (also prominent on Hilton’s website) is gorgeous and exciting. After parking my rental, I found my way to a large, breathtaking lobby filled with warm woods, local pottery, and comfy seating spaces. A Starbucks was tucked in the corner so I knew my need for morning coffee would be satiated. Things were looking up!

The desk staff was polite but not warm. None of my Hilton perks were freely offered. I had to ask for my complementary water. My fair skin was already drying out like a fish on a dock. Weirdly, for midafternoon (i.e. prime check-in time), the lobby was silent. Empty. It would remain quiet and empty for the course of my stay.

Since I would be there for seven nights, I was a bit disappointed to find my balcony overlooked a rooftop of loud HVAC units. My obstructed sunset views would be backdropped with the whir of droning machines. It should be noted that the rooms do not look like the rooms advertised on the Hilton (and other travel) website. Expect more of typical Hilton hotel room and perhaps you’ll be surprised with one of those “photo rooms.” Though, I should stress, my room was clean and spacious and bright. The bed was comfortable with lots of squishy pillows. My suitcase gave the side chair high marks for comfort since that’s where it sat for a week. The desk was large enough for working and in-room dining. No complaints. And since I was the only person around, the room was quiet. Sometimes eerily quiet for someone used to two kids and a dog stamping about.

I should note that I probably would have opted for a downtown hotel and something a bit more boutique-y if my other half were with me. We would enjoy walking the streets at night seeking restaurants and evening happenings around town. As a woman traveling alone and one needing quiet and rest, I opted for the “out of town” option. I saw lovely options right in the center of town within walking distance of many sights and museums.

More about the Hilton Buffalo Thunder Resort. Over the course of the week, I experienced these things:

1. The Iguana Cafe has both the friendliest service and the best food on the property. I dined there twice during my stay. Both the breakfast burritos (with green chile sauce!) and the Santa Fe chicken sandwich (with avocado) entrees were tasty and ample.
2. I ordered the margherita pizza from Red Sage, the “flagship” restaurant on the property. I ordered at the bar from a bartender struggling to take his eyes off his phone while I ordered. I was the only person in the bar or dining room during prime dinner hours. While I sat at the bar with my drink, he told me I “should” (not “could”) walk around the hotel while I waited for my meal. Okaaaaay. When I returned, I found he had bagged it and left it on the bar. Bar dining became in-room dining.
3. Because it seemed like the first week of off-season, the employees were possibly the least-engaged crew I’ve encountered in a long time. Minus the great service at the Iguana Cafe, nobody seemed particularly interested in being friendly or helpful. This continued for the entire week.
4. There’s a deli/sandwich counter (Pueblo Deli) tucked around a corner inside the large on-property casino (downstairs). I wanted to pull the handle of a slot machine one time before ordering a quick sandwich. I waited to order at the deli for twenty minutes while two women working behind the counter glanced at me while having a personal conversation. It felt obvious that they weren’t in the mood to help me. I jumped in my rental car and grabbed the beef gyro at the nearby Arby’s. The service at Arby’s was quick and friendly. The gyro and curly fries were delicious.
5. Facilities at the Hilton Buffalo Thunder Resort. The outdoor pool area was empty and pretty run down. For such a large property, I’m surprised more energy isn’t being put into keeping this area presentable and inviting for year-round guests. As a guest considering whether I’d return with my family, this aspect of the property was a disappointment. Otherwise, I found the resort to be clean and spacious. The local artwork showcased throughout the property was a great touch. Beautiful pieces that inspired me to get outside of the resort each day and seek out art displayed in other places. I fell in love with Acoma pottery before stepping out of the lobby for the first time.

Checking out of the resort was easy. The drive between the resort and the airport to return home was also easy. Sitting in that awful little airport until the plane arrived to return me home was less easy. Try to check-in online and be aware that baggage “drop-off” at the airport involves leaving your suitcase in a short unmarked hallway. It will feel weird (wrong?) to abandon your bag there as an employee yells at you to “just leave your bag and I’ll get to it” after all of these years of “leave no bag unattended.” Like a pre-9/11 time warp. After a week in New Mexico, I was able to accept that this is just how they do things. They seem a little immune from the world’s rules and expectations. Shrug and enjoy the book you hopefully brought with you. Once you walk through the tiny security area (chaos!), you’ll sit in a small waiting room awaiting your plane. This waiting room used to the be the former cafe’s kitchen, I think. Or a dining space? There’s a nice outdoor seating space with a few tables for the first ones to grab them.

You’ll enjoy watching the comings and goings of the locals. At the airport awaiting for departure, I had the pleasure of watching 1) the airline employee who worked the check-in counter also load bags onto the plane, 2) a pilot smoking a cigarette and directing car traffic in front of the building, and 3) an employee step out of the rickety, wooden door labeled “air traffic control” wearing shorts, a tank top, and wrap-around sunglasses. The people watching is fantastic here.

Santa Fe is a casual place. It’s completely quirky. I hope you’ll read my post about my experience of the city itself, the sights, and the people. It’s a gorgeous place and a wonderful experience once you get past the “business end” of coming and going. Pick your hotel wisely based on your needs. Expect some delays. Bring a water bottle and start drinking copious amounts of water before you arrive. Don’t forget your sun hat and your sunglasses. The glare from the sun and all of that silver jewelry can be brutal. 🙂